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Twistiewristies

Twistiewristies by Fifalde

I was recommended this yarn by ConstanceCrochet on Ravelry, I was going to make a scarf with it but needed some more wristies so made these instead. It’s lovely soft yarn tho’ I did find the strands split rather easily.

I went on to make a Baktus with the same yarn.

I made mine with Wendy Happy 4ply, colour -Scorpio and used 2.5mm needles.

tw2L – Left Twist Stitches: Slip each stitch individually knitwise and then replace them onto the left needle, knit the second stitch through the back loop and then both together through the back loops. This matches RT in the same way that SSK matches k2tog.

tw2R – Right Twist Stitches:  Identify your two-stitch unit. Skip the first stitch and knit into the front of the second, then knit the skipped stitch and slide the entire unit off your needle.

* See end note

First Hand

Cast On 62st.

Work 14 rows k2, p2 rib.

R1: (decrease row, I didn’t want the rib to stretch too much but wanted a snug fit for the hand):

Sl1, k3, (tw2R, k2, k2tog, k2), x 6, tw2R, k7.(55st)

R2 and all WS rows: Sl1, p to end.

R3: Sl1, k2, (tw2R, k5) x 7, k3.

R5: Sl1, k1, (tw2R, k5) x 7, k4.

R7: Sl1, k7, (tw2R, k5) x 6, tw2R, k3.

R9: Sl1, k6, (tw2R, k5) x 6, tw2R, k4.

R11: Sl1, k5, (tw2R, k5) x 7.

R13: Sl1, k4, (tw2R, k5) x 7, k1.

R15: Sl1, k3, (tw2R, k5) x 8, k2.

Rpt rows 2 – 16.

Thumb shaping (adjust pattern to allow for thumb – which is all st st)

R33: Work 26*st, PM, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, PM, work to end.

R34 & even rows: p to M. Sl M, p1, p into front of yo (Or back depending how you do your yo – to give a hole-less increase), p1, p into front/back of yo, p1, Sl M, p to end.

R35: Work 27st, PM, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, PM, work to end.

Continue until there are 19st between Ms, finish on an even row.

Row 49 (hopefully): Work 26st remove M, k1, put 17sts on a spare thread, k1, remove M, work to end. (54st)

R50: p26, sk1, p1, p skipped st, (to give firm base to thumb), p to end.

R51: Work patt to centre st, kfb (to make up centre st ‘lost’ in thumb shaping), patt to end. (55st).

Continue until required length, ending on row 12 (WS).

Rib rows – to blend with previous patt:

R1: k3, p2, (k2, p2, k1, p2) x 7, k1.

R2: p3, k2, (p2, k2, p1, k2) x 7, p1.

Rpt.

Cast off in rib pattern.

Second Hand

R1:Sl1, k3, (tw2L, k2, k2tog, k2) x 6, tw2L, k7.(55st)

R2 and all WS rows: Sl1, p to end.

R3: Sl1, k4, (tw2L, k5) x 7, k1.

R5: Sl1, k5, (tw2L, k5) x 7.

R7: Sl1, k6, (tw2L, k5) x 6, tw2L, k4.

R9: Sl1, (tw2L, k5) x 7, tw2L, k3.

R11: Sl1, k1, (tw2L, k5) x 7, tw2L, k2.

R13: Sl1, k2, (tw2L, k5) x 7, k3.

R15: Sl1, k3, (tw2L, k5) x 7, k2.

Continue as first hand.

Rib rows – to blend with previous patt:

R1: p3, k2, (p2, k2, p1, k2) x 7, p1.

R2: k3, p2, (k2, p2, k1, p2) x 7, k1.

Rpt.

Cast off in rib pattern.

I finished the thumbs with 2 rounds of double crochet (US – sc) on a 2 mm hook. 17 dc from the thread, 4 from the base of the thumb – I just can’t get on with tiny dpns.

Use mattress st for the seams.

·AFTERTHOUGHT:I should have moved the thumb shaping about 6st towards the fronts of the wristies ie at about 20st for one and 35st for the second to ensure the seam was out of sight.


Discussion

One thought on “Twistiewristies

  1. Absolutely love the cat scarf! I have a Tortoiseshell cat named Gidget and I think I might make one to look like her. Although, she might get a little jealous.

    Posted by Frankie | April 18, 2011, 8:05 pm

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